November 4-11, 2008: Atlantis Women Tour Borneo

2.  Thursday/Friday: Travel to Sandakan & Orang Utan Rehab Center

(Atlantis tournament #126, part 2)
Emil Signes
August 7, 2013

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Team in mushroom
Team in Mushroom Sculpture at Kinabalu Park, en route from KK to Sandakan


Atlantis Women in Borneo-1. Tuesday/Wednesday: Long Trip and Kota Kinabalu
Atlantis Women in Borneo-2. Thursday/Friday: Travel to Sandakan & Orang Utan Rehab Centre
Atlantis Women in Borneo-3. Saturday & Sunday: Tournament & Celebration
Atlantis Women in Borneo-4. Monday & Tuesday: Palm Oil Plantation, Kids, Heading Home


Obama's Election. As I noted, we learned about Barack Obama's election while we were Manukan Island yesterday, but today his election was the headline in all the Malaysian papers, including two editions of the Sabah Times, one in English, and one in Bahasa Malaysia, the form of Malay used as the official language in Malaysia. Both covers are shown below, and at the top of the left picture can also be seen the headline of the Daily Express of East Malaysia (i.e. the part of Borneo where we are): "Reality of first black occupying the White House is hailed globally as historic."

Most Malaysians seemed pleased (he lived in this part of the world - Indonesia - for a while), although I'm sorry now I didn't try to engage any of them in more than chit chat about it.  Sarah's been wearing her "Obama 08" T shirt since we arrived, so she seems happy.  Elena Olivi, who will join us on Saturday, will relate at that time that she was in Kenya for Obama's election and that the whole country was celebrating: one cab driver ended up giving her a free ride in celebration because she was an American.

Obama paper Malay   Obama paper English
A couple of headlines announcing Obama's victory in Tuesday's Election

I saved those papers with Obama's election announcement because I knew they'd be great reminders of where I was when he was elected (just like I still have a July 21, 1969 issue of the Rocky Mountain News announcing that "Yanks Walk on Moon" because Heide and I were in the Rockies at the time with our 7-month old daughter Carmita) ...

Though I took the pictures of these papers, Michelle Persica (AKA "Flash") was the great tour videographer, and her more than 1100 pictures allowed me, in 2013, to recreate the tour pretty well.

My contact person for the tournament, Kimberly Tan, had told me we could ride or fly to Sandakan from Kota Kinabalu, but that the bus trip would be comfortable and might be rewarding. I think we're all pleased that we took the bus option. Eight hours from start to finish, it provided for lots of interesting views and stops (no on-board bathroom so stops were guaranteed) en route. The map below shows the West to East route from KK to Sandakan that we took.  The satellite version of this map is nearly 100% green, showing the pristine (and dense) mountainous nature of this portion of the island.

Route from KK to
            Sandakan
Route from KK to Sandakan

Googlemaps says this is barely more than a 5-hour trip, but by the time we're done the entire travel time will have been more than 8 (well-spent) hours (and we knew that going into it).  Many things take place on the bus - card games, nicknames, photography, a fine session, ... no time for boredom on tour.


Holly bus specialist   All on
          bus
Left: Holly looks like she's feeling good about our trip
Right: Ready to spend the better part of 8 hours here



Playing cards
Playing cards is a nice way to while away the time, and ...
I guess reading the rules beforehand can be helpful


First stop   Unisex
            toilet
Left: Our first bathroom stop was in a village with a nice, though small, market
Right: The Unisex bathroom wasn't everyone's favorite

We see beautiful scenery throughout our trip; here are two views:

Scenery - 1   Scenery 2
Two views through the bus window during our trip


Holly buys ticket   Kinabalu
            ticket
Holly buys a ticket to enter Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site



Sign - guide   Flower
Left: Guide to the Park // Right: A trio of the many flowers gracing the park

footbridge-1
This footbridge was part of the trail.  A little shaky, but fun.

Footbridge
            2
The rest of the team makes it across

  Team in logs
Whenever there's a chance for a team picture, the team finds a new way to pose for one!

Having left Kinabalu Park without eating, we head to the town of Ranau where we will make a quick food stop.  Here we drive by a group of mostly girls at a bus stop.

Kids near Ranau
Kids waiting for bus near Ranau

Our bus driver leads us to a KFC.  We notice chicken on a stick on the sign and also on the menu.  (In August 2013 I checked the web for the Malaysian KFC menu, and discovered web news dated November 12, 2008 [we were there on November 6]).  It announced that "KFC Malaysia introduces a chunky and spicy boneless chicken skewered on a stick at all its outlets to attract the young."

  KFC
While driving through the wilderness, we drove through the little town of Ranau.
We saw a KFC. We stopped. "Chicken on a stick?"



Casey orders   KFC announcement
Left: Casey checks out the chicken on a stick, November 6, 2008
Right: Article I found in 2013 in Malaysia's The Star of November 12, 2008 (online version)


Persica
            schmoozes employees   Sarah schmoozes chicken
Left: Persica schmoozes employees // Right: Sarah schmoozes chicken

As we continued, we passed through a huge area of oil palm; there was also a large industrial plant nearby.  In retrospect I wonder if this was the IJM Oil Palm Plantation that we were to visit the following Monday.

Plantation
Oil Palm Plantation en route to Sandakan

Our last bathroom stop was most noteworthy - to me - for the flypaper over all of the restaurant tables, along with the salt and pepper shakers.  I remember ubiquitous fly paper, and swatting flies, from my youth.  Fortunately, the frequency of house flies, at least in the US, has decreased markedly in my lifetime.

last stop   Fly paper
Most noteworthy impression of this stop was the ubiquitous flypaper

Sandakan.  On our arrival in Sandakan we had a brief run on the beautiful new fields, but I have no photographic evidence to prove that. (Once we got serious, our cameras went dark. Even our liaisons had work to do for the tournament and weren't able to take pictures.)

What we definitely did was enjoy a wonderful seafood meal at the Borneo Eagles' clubhouse at the Sandakan rugby fields.

Seafood plate   Casey serves self
Wonderful meal at clubhouse (and there was more)

Following the meal we went off to our hotel for a team meeting and one last (for the day) team picture.

Team meeting at St. Mark's Hotel
L to R: Mike, Michelle, Tracy, Jess, Casey, Sarah, Jane, Holly, Christina, Emil

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2008

The early risers stepped out of our hotel to the sight of the flags of the nation of Malaysia and the state of Sabah. We took a little walk and headed back to breakfast.  Then it was off to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, just a few miles outside of town.

Malaysian & Sabah flags
Flags of Malaysia (L) and Sabah (the easternmost state of Malaysia)


At Mark's Lodge Hotel   Nearby
            street
Left: Early risers in front of our hotel
Right: a block away, this business district is pretty empty at 7 AM


Team at Orange Sanctuary
We head in to see the Orangutans



Orang closeup   Orang looks
            left

Orang hanging   Orang
            swinging
Four typical views of Orangutans passing their time away at the Rehabilitation Centre.


Orangs & keepers
Feeding time for this group of Orangutans. The lone monkey (lower right) tries to get in on the action as well.

Click on the picture to see a few seconds of feeding time

Despite the name of the sanctuary, there are TONS more monkeys to be seen, and to interact with, than Orangutans. I believe they are all proboscis monkeys. It was very interesting to "hang out" with them during our visit.  Here are a few pictures of monkeys on their own, then with us.

Monkey cleans self  Monkey in branch  MOnkey climbs


2 monkeys MOnkey mom and baby  One monkey cleans another
A few typical views of monkeys all around us, doing what they do


Taizo & monkey   Tracy & monkey
Left: Taizo Hirabayashi, one of the top sevens referees in the world, has a friend
Right: Tracy with her monkey friend


Mike w monkey   Fijian
            & monkey
Left: Mike befriends monkey // Right: Fijian rugby player has apparently asked this monkey to dance!


When I tried to join the happy interaction between people and monkeys, however, I was rebuffed by whom I believed to be my simian friend.  A couple tenths of a second after Tracy snapped the picture, the monkey's left hand was across my face.

Emilito attacked by monkey
The picture that gave many friends much amusement. It ended up online in more than one place :)
I asked Tracy to take a picture of me with the monkey, who then reached out and smacked me!

Following the visit to the Orangutan sanctuary, we headed to the Sandakan Memorial Park, built to commemorate the fate, and trials, of POWs - mostly Australian - captured during World War II and forced to walk in what was virtually a death march from Sanadakan to Ranau.

(From http://www.awm.gov.au/exhibitions/stolenyears/ww2/japan/sandakan/ - "By late 1944, with Allied forces advancing toward Borneo, the Japanese decided to send about 2,000 Australian and British prisoners westward to Ranau, in Borneo’s rugged interior. Weak and sick prisoners staggered for about 260 kilometres along jungle tracks. Many died on the way, their bodies never recovered. Those unable to continue were killed; those too weak to march had been left behind in Sandakan, where all died or were killed. Only six – all Australians – out of about a thousand sent to Ranau survived the war." )

And the only thing we had known about Ranau was that it had a KFC.


Death march plaque  Lest we
                forget (Sandakan)
Two markers from the Sandakan Memorial Park. L: the Death March Route. R: There is an annual service to commemorate World War II vets.
 
While wandering around this area of town we spotted a group of schoolgirls on the street; so similar in concept, yet so different in detail, from Cuba.  In both places kids wear identical uniforms. In Cuba, however, the uniforms for both sexes are shorts (or short skirts).  They both, however, do have an American influence in what they carry about with them; note the Minnie Mouse bag carried by one of the girls.

School girls in uniform
Girls on their way from school. Note the Minnie Mouse bookbag.

And we saw yet another unfamiliar creature in the water (not that I'm any kind of expert on creatures, but it looked different from the turtles I know).

Turtle?
Bornean turtle seen during our travels

We had a final team meeting to remind ourselves why we had come, and Mike and I presented the players with their playing jerseys.  The players got the jerseys, we got a hug.  :)

Emil & final chat   Mike &
          Sarah   Emil &
          Persica
Final talk before tourney; Jersey ceremony


Before our last words about the tournament, I showed a little video I had made of the trip to Sepilok. And the difference between a monkey and an ape.

When the meeting ended, all that was between us and playing rugby was a good night's sleep and breakfast.

Continued:
Atlantis Women in Borneo-3. Saturday & Sunday: Tournament & Celebration

Atlantis Women in Borneo-1. Tuesday/Wednesday: Long Trip and Kota Kinabalu
Atlantis Women in Borneo-2. Thursday/Friday: Travel to Sandakan & Orang Utan Rehab Centre
Atlantis Women in Borneo-3. Saturday & Sunday: Tournament & Celebration
Atlantis Women in Borneo-4. Monday & Tuesday: Palm Oil Plantation, Kids, Heading Home


home | Family Stories, Pictures, etc | Family Trees Rugby Stories, Data, Pictures, etc | Miscellaneous
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Borneo Tour Home